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Can You Find Peace at 17,800 Feet? My Journey to Gurudongmar Lake, India’s Sacred Jewel


मलाय सिक्किम मन परछा (Malai Sikkim man parcha,)

सिक्किम जनता मन परछा (Sikkim janta man parcha,)

मलाई सिक्किम को डाणा (Malai Sikkim ko dana,)

काणा छहरा रा बहरा मन परछा । (Kana chhara ra bahra man parcha.)

I love Sikkim,

I love the people of Sikkim,

I love the water of Sikkim,

I love the people of the hills and valleys.

Lyrics from this popular song in Nepalese language resonate deeply within me. Nestled in the Himalayas, Sikkim and other Northern and Northeastern states had always held a certain mystique, but the thought of frigid temperatures kept me at bay.  Shoja, a solitary snowy escape in Himachal Pradesh, had once satisfied my mountain curiosity.

Love and Exploration: A Himalayan Awakening

Then, love intervened.  With Pranav, my partner in adventure, the northeastern region of India unfolded before us. The majestic mountains and life-giving rivers captivated me. I visited Arunachal Pradesh and Meghalaya with him in 2022. In September 2023, Sikkim beckoned. Gurudongmar Lake, a spiritual haven at 17,800 feet, became my focal point while he was busy working from a small hostel in Gangtok.

A Journey of Shared Taxis, New Friends, and Breathtaking Vistas

My shared taxi journey towards Lachen and Lachung, charming villages nestled amidst the Himalayas, was a delightful introduction and fostered new friendships. The warm hospitality at our Lachen accommodation is something I cherish. The Teesta River, a vibrant ribbon dancing between the mountains, filled me with joy.  But tales of Gurudongmar Lake painted a picture beyond compare: turquoise waters nestled amongst snow-capped peaks, their reflections creating a breathtaking canvas. However, warnings of bone-chilling winds, occasional flying stones, and the thin air at such high altitudes sent shivers down my spine.

Reaching the Sacred Jewel: Awe and Inner Peace

As we neared the lake, a palpable shift in energy filled the air. The sight of towering glaciers humbled me. Gurudongmar Lake wasn’t just visually stunning; it was a place where the crisp mountain air invigorated my soul, washing away all my worries.

A Revered Site Steeped in History

Revered by Buddhists, Gurudongmar translates to “Lake of the Guru Padmasambhava.” Legend tells of the Guru blessing the lake, ensuring a portion remains unfrozen all year round, a life-giving source for the local people. The beauty extended beyond the visual. The thin air demanded a slower pace, allowing me to fully appreciate the complex yet majestic scene around me. Prayer flags, vibrant against the stark landscape, fluttered in the wind. I attempted to light incense sticks, offered by a kind stranger who frequented the site, but the wind playfully refused.

A Touch of the Divine and Gratitude

Descending towards the lake, a sense of awe washed over me. As I touched the holy water, a profound connection to something larger than myself bloomed amidst the grandeur of nature.

A Note of Gratitude and Sustainability

PS A few days later, on October 4th, 2023, heavy rains caused a flash flood in the Teesta River, damaging roads and the Teesta dam. I’m incredibly grateful to have witnessed the beauty of North Sikkim before this event. My thoughts are with those who lost their lives. The homestays at Lachen and Lachung, along with the Indian Army, provided invaluable assistance to stranded tourists.

I hope our descendants find a world without borders

Presently, only Indian Citizens are allowed to witness this spiritual beauty with special permits. I am sharing the images for all to see.

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